Had another exciting day on S. Georgia Island walking among the penguins and
fur seals. The plethora of life on this island is amazing. We've become
skilled at fending off the aggresive seals as we stroll along their beach
and into the hills above. They are everywhere. We've also gotten into
elephant seal beaches. They are huge and the sounds they make when added to
the cacaphony of the fur seal pups makes for a noisy environment. We've
been lucky with the weather. Some days have actually been quite warm. We
go prepared for cool weather, but usually start removing layers as soon as
we hit the beach. Today however is a different story. We had a very wet
and cold Zodiac ride into a bay to visit an old abandoned whaling station
this morning. We had to view it from the rafts since it was off limits due
to asbestos contamination. This is typical of all the old stations
throughout the island. Our planned noon landing in Right Whale Bay had to
be cancelled due to rough seas that were blowing right on shore. Zodiac
landings would have been too challenging. We are now heading for an island
that harbors an albatross breeding colony that has been closed for some
time. We will be the first group allowed in to the reserve. Getting to
know many people and learning about life in Australia. There are a number
of teachers so we can relate. Seems that no matter who we talk with, life
is pretty much the same. Tonight we leave S. Georgia and head for the
Antarctic Peninsula-two days sail. Should be exciting getting into big ice.
We have already seen small icebergs. We have discovered that our ship is
the best in the subpolar region and was actually standing by to help, if
needed, the ship that many of you saw on the news. Our ship, Akademick
Ioffee, was only 20 miles behind that ship in the same storm and people on
board we casually having coffee as the Celia II was struggling after
experiencing damage. More later.
Saturday, January 8, 2011
Thursday, January 6, 2011
Pecked by a Penguin, Sortied by a Seal
We have tried to find words to describe the past day and a half on South
Georgia Island. All we can come up with is, Wow!! Yesterday morning we
cruised by Zodiacs into bays and fjords for up close and personal encounters
with hundreds of fur and elephant seals and penguins. Then in the afternoon
we moved to another anchorage to walk ashore on the Salisbury Plain among
thousands of penguins and fur seals. The penguin rookery went on as far as
one could see. At one point Tom just stood very still and a King penguin
came up to give him the once over by pecking at his leg and tugging on his
parka. What a thrill to be able to interact with such unique creatures. We
also had to assume the defensive position with some fur seal males as they
charged to assert their territory. It could be a little unsettling as they
are intimidating critters-mean set of teeth. The young penguins were just
balls of brown fluff as they were shedding their baby plumage for the adult
feathers. But the most precious of all were the fur seal pups. You just
wanted to pick each one up and give them a hug. Their constant crying for
their mothers to come feed them creates an eerie sound that can be heard
from quite a distance even when we are sailing by in the ship. It is a
haunting sound that we don't think we'll ever forget. This morning we went
ashore for more trekking through the seal and penguin colonies and also saw
Reindeer herds. They were transplanted here by the Norwegians during the
days of whaling as a food source. We have been taking photos by the
hundreds. We just hope they turn out and can capture the experience. More
later!
Georgia Island. All we can come up with is, Wow!! Yesterday morning we
cruised by Zodiacs into bays and fjords for up close and personal encounters
with hundreds of fur and elephant seals and penguins. Then in the afternoon
we moved to another anchorage to walk ashore on the Salisbury Plain among
thousands of penguins and fur seals. The penguin rookery went on as far as
one could see. At one point Tom just stood very still and a King penguin
came up to give him the once over by pecking at his leg and tugging on his
parka. What a thrill to be able to interact with such unique creatures. We
also had to assume the defensive position with some fur seal males as they
charged to assert their territory. It could be a little unsettling as they
are intimidating critters-mean set of teeth. The young penguins were just
balls of brown fluff as they were shedding their baby plumage for the adult
feathers. But the most precious of all were the fur seal pups. You just
wanted to pick each one up and give them a hug. Their constant crying for
their mothers to come feed them creates an eerie sound that can be heard
from quite a distance even when we are sailing by in the ship. It is a
haunting sound that we don't think we'll ever forget. This morning we went
ashore for more trekking through the seal and penguin colonies and also saw
Reindeer herds. They were transplanted here by the Norwegians during the
days of whaling as a food source. We have been taking photos by the
hundreds. We just hope they turn out and can capture the experience. More
later!
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
20 hours of daylight
Tuesday, Jan. 4, 2011
Spent the day traversihg the Scotia Sea and finally crossed into the
Antarctic Zone. The temperature drop was significant when we entered the
current bringing cold water up from Antarctica. We saw many fur seals,
penguins, albatrosses, petrals, etc. this evening as we head toward a
morning landing on South Georgia Island. Being two of the few Americans on
the trip has been interesting. We are surrounded by Aussies, Kiwis,
Canadiens, Chinese, Koreans, and who knows how many more. It has been
interesting getting their take on America. It is surprising how little they
know about the things we take for granted as part of our culture, especially
considering how well traveled most of them are. Yet, it's amazing that we
all share so many of the same problems/issues. The seas have been
surprisingly calm for the Great Southern Ocean, but we have had a solid two
days of fog that has limited our visibility. Also, the ship is very stable.
The Russian crew maintains a clean ship. The food, though lacking somewhat
in taste, is plentiful. We have an early wake-up so we can enjoy the
passage into South Georgia and the view of significant wildlife populations.
We still continue to have about 20 hours of daylight, but that will change
to 24 hours of daylight when we leave South Georgia for the Antarctic
Peninsula. We also have a pool on when we will see our first iceberg.
Should be exciting. More later!
Spent the day traversihg the Scotia Sea and finally crossed into the
Antarctic Zone. The temperature drop was significant when we entered the
current bringing cold water up from Antarctica. We saw many fur seals,
penguins, albatrosses, petrals, etc. this evening as we head toward a
morning landing on South Georgia Island. Being two of the few Americans on
the trip has been interesting. We are surrounded by Aussies, Kiwis,
Canadiens, Chinese, Koreans, and who knows how many more. It has been
interesting getting their take on America. It is surprising how little they
know about the things we take for granted as part of our culture, especially
considering how well traveled most of them are. Yet, it's amazing that we
all share so many of the same problems/issues. The seas have been
surprisingly calm for the Great Southern Ocean, but we have had a solid two
days of fog that has limited our visibility. Also, the ship is very stable.
The Russian crew maintains a clean ship. The food, though lacking somewhat
in taste, is plentiful. We have an early wake-up so we can enjoy the
passage into South Georgia and the view of significant wildlife populations.
We still continue to have about 20 hours of daylight, but that will change
to 24 hours of daylight when we leave South Georgia for the Antarctic
Peninsula. We also have a pool on when we will see our first iceberg.
Should be exciting. More later!
British?
Sat. 01-01
Our second great trip to shore - Carcass Island. We saw many birds and more
penguins.
Sun. 01-02
Spent the night at sea and arrived at Port Stanley in AM. Went to shore to
visit the museum and a few shops. Ate at the Globe Bar. We learned a lot
about the Falklands War in 1982. The islanders are very British. We'll be
at sea for the next two days. We are now looking for our first iceberg.
Our second great trip to shore - Carcass Island. We saw many birds and more
penguins.
Sun. 01-02
Spent the night at sea and arrived at Port Stanley in AM. Went to shore to
visit the museum and a few shops. Ate at the Globe Bar. We learned a lot
about the Falklands War in 1982. The islanders are very British. We'll be
at sea for the next two days. We are now looking for our first iceberg.
Sunday, January 2, 2011
The Southern Cross
We went ashore on "Carcus Island." |t was named after a ship, not a dead
body. We were dropped ashore via Zodiac inflatable raft and walked two
miles to the private home of Falkland Islanders. They served us "High Tea"
via English style. The spread was incredible-over 40 different types of
pasteries. After the long walk around the island viewing more penguins and
other wild life, we were ready for some down time. Today, using the
vernacular of today's youth, was "awesome!!" We have an early rise in the
morning for breakfast so we can debark in Port Stanley, the only
civilizatiion we'll see on this adventure. We have a view in the night sky
totally different from that in the Northern Hemisphere; no Big/Little
dipper. Here it is the Southern Cross-absolutely beautiful. It's now 10:30
pm our time and the sun just went down. We get about 20 hours of daylight.
Dinner is usually not served 'til around 8:00 pm, so our body clocks are
totally out of whack, but we are adjusting quickly. Interesting people on
the cruise. We are two of only a few Americans. Conversations are always
interesting and informative. Their take on the USA a little different from
that voiced by many back home. That's it for now. More tomorrow!
body. We were dropped ashore via Zodiac inflatable raft and walked two
miles to the private home of Falkland Islanders. They served us "High Tea"
via English style. The spread was incredible-over 40 different types of
pasteries. After the long walk around the island viewing more penguins and
other wild life, we were ready for some down time. Today, using the
vernacular of today's youth, was "awesome!!" We have an early rise in the
morning for breakfast so we can debark in Port Stanley, the only
civilizatiion we'll see on this adventure. We have a view in the night sky
totally different from that in the Northern Hemisphere; no Big/Little
dipper. Here it is the Southern Cross-absolutely beautiful. It's now 10:30
pm our time and the sun just went down. We get about 20 hours of daylight.
Dinner is usually not served 'til around 8:00 pm, so our body clocks are
totally out of whack, but we are adjusting quickly. Interesting people on
the cruise. We are two of only a few Americans. Conversations are always
interesting and informative. Their take on the USA a little different from
that voiced by many back home. That's it for now. More tomorrow!
Penguins!
We had our first landing ashore today right in the middle of multiple
penguin rookeries. The Gentus, Magellinic, King and Rocker Hopper penguins
were everywhere. Also many bird species, in particular, the Skuas as they
would raid nests and catch little baby penguins for lunch. In fact they had
a nest with chicks right next to the rookeries-closer to the food source.
Poor little penguins. The Rooks were also active trying to steal a chick.
The penguins were constantly on their guard for attackers. But, they seemed
to have little reservation about us getting right next to them. We just
finished lunch and are on our way to another anchorage and trip[ ashore in
the afternoon. Our experience today was incredible and the guides tell us
it is nothing compared to South Georgia Island. If true we can't even begin
to imagine what we're in for. Got to go and suit up for the ride to shore
in the Zodiac inflatable rafts-it gets a little wet. The wind is blowing
about a steady 30 MPH so we get much spray and roling surf on the beach.
Having a marvelous time!
penguin rookeries. The Gentus, Magellinic, King and Rocker Hopper penguins
were everywhere. Also many bird species, in particular, the Skuas as they
would raid nests and catch little baby penguins for lunch. In fact they had
a nest with chicks right next to the rookeries-closer to the food source.
Poor little penguins. The Rooks were also active trying to steal a chick.
The penguins were constantly on their guard for attackers. But, they seemed
to have little reservation about us getting right next to them. We just
finished lunch and are on our way to another anchorage and trip[ ashore in
the afternoon. Our experience today was incredible and the guides tell us
it is nothing compared to South Georgia Island. If true we can't even begin
to imagine what we're in for. Got to go and suit up for the ride to shore
in the Zodiac inflatable rafts-it gets a little wet. The wind is blowing
about a steady 30 MPH so we get much spray and roling surf on the beach.
Having a marvelous time!
Off We Go!
Friday,
12-31-10
We made it to our destination after 36 hours of flights and layovers. The
flight from Buenoa Aires to Ushuaia was beautiful with huge mountains
covered with snow. It was very warm when we arrived but it is now cooling
off. We even had all of our luggage arrive - Yeah!!!! Unfortunately we
could not get access to a computer after we landed. We have had two glorious
days on board the Research Vessel. We've met many wonderful people from all
over the world. There are only 10 couples from the US so we have been
hanging with the Brits,Canadians, Aussies, and New Zealanders. We've seen
some really interesting birds, a few penguins, and Albotross. We are
heading to The Falklands where we will have the opportunity to see lots of
penguins. Tonight we will be celebrating New Year's Eve as we head for the
Falklands. So far, the weather is cooperating. Since we don't have access
to the internet our nephew may be able to update our blog for us. This is
the first attempt. We hope you have a wonderful New Year's. We'll see you
in 2011. Tena and Tom
p.s. This is Ian Ferrell, the nephew, being e-mailed from Tena and Tom and relaying their messages, so they probably won't get your comments for awhile.
12-31-10
We made it to our destination after 36 hours of flights and layovers. The
flight from Buenoa Aires to Ushuaia was beautiful with huge mountains
covered with snow. It was very warm when we arrived but it is now cooling
off. We even had all of our luggage arrive - Yeah!!!! Unfortunately we
could not get access to a computer after we landed. We have had two glorious
days on board the Research Vessel. We've met many wonderful people from all
over the world. There are only 10 couples from the US so we have been
hanging with the Brits,Canadians, Aussies, and New Zealanders. We've seen
some really interesting birds, a few penguins, and Albotross. We are
heading to The Falklands where we will have the opportunity to see lots of
penguins. Tonight we will be celebrating New Year's Eve as we head for the
Falklands. So far, the weather is cooperating. Since we don't have access
to the internet our nephew may be able to update our blog for us. This is
the first attempt. We hope you have a wonderful New Year's. We'll see you
in 2011. Tena and Tom
p.s. This is Ian Ferrell, the nephew, being e-mailed from Tena and Tom and relaying their messages, so they probably won't get your comments for awhile.
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