Thursday, February 3, 2011

Photos


 
 

 

 

 

 
Unable to post photos to previous entries so here is a selection from our adventure.

The Adventure Ends

Pedro picked us up at the hotel and took us to the airport, where we apprehensively approached check-in and the luggage hassle.  They wouldn't allow our carry on.  It had to be checked.  They piled it all on the scales and we thought, here we go again. Then we saw Pedro give a head nod and make a subtle comment to the airline staff.  Sudenly, our baggage disappeared down the conveyer belt without any weight overcharge, just "Have a nice flight."  Check-in also only took about 2 minutes. When we boarded the plane, it was a brand new jet-large seats, leg room and a wonderful flight crew.  What a great way to end our flying experience with Aerolineas.  Certainly, a great deal different than all our other airport and flights via Aerolineas in Argentina.  When we originally saw our flight schedules and the long layovers between flights in Argentina, we asked the agent why?  He just said, you'll need the time.  As it turned out, a 3-4 hour space between flights when using the domestic airport is just about right.  So, should any of you one day have to travel within Argentina using Aerolineas, make sure you have hours to check-in and make your flight.  Our flight home via American went without a hitch and we got back to BWI at 12:00 noon, only to find the temperature in Baltimore, colder than in Antarctica.  We were picked-up by our friend and neighbor Joe, with a welcoming cold nose and prolific licks from Maxie, his long haired minature daschund and also our "god dog."  Thus ended the vacation adventure of a lifetime.  It's always nice to come home, but we have been left with thoughts of wonderful new friends and experiences of which we could only have dreamed.  Should any of you decide one day to venture into the polar regions, make your first call to Quark Expeditions.  Without a doubt, they are the class in this category.

Post Script:  While on board ship we only had access to email.  We would send our entries to our nephew, Ian, and he would post them to our blog.  This meant we were unable to include any photos.  So, we are going back to our previous entries and include some photos from the approximately 2000 we took to give you a flavor for our experience.  Hope you can take the time to reread and view the photos.

Iguazu Falls

The ride from the Lodge through the jungle back to the strip shopping center was quite different.  The owner personally took us in the new long cab Nissan pick-up-comfortable.  The road was also significantly improved.  When we arrived at the center, the owner called the car service to pick us up for the ride to the Sheraton.  We were booked into a room that overlooked the Falls-what an incredible view.  We spent the day touring the Falls with our guide, Pedro. We ended the experience by taking the boat ride that put us under the flow.  When we finished, we were soaked.  After an open truck ride through more jungle back to the hotel, we met up with our Aussie friends from the cruise who were also at the hotel.  We ended the day with good food and good company.  Brent and Jayne are great folks.

The Day From Hell Ending in Shangri-la

We were to be picked up at our hotel by 7:20 AM for a flight departing from Buenos Aires (BA) domestic airport at 9:30 A.M.  At 7:35 the car had not shown so we (fortunately) asked the bellhop to call the service.  They had forgotten us.  Luckily the bellhop had lived in the USA for several years and was fluent in English, since our Spanish is nil.  The car arrived at 7:50 and got us to the airport around 8:10.  The lines were all from 200-400 people long.  We had our boarding passes and only had to check our luggage.  To make a long story short we ended up in 5 different lines and got our luggage checked at 9:35 (yes, 5 minutes after our flight was to have departed).  Then a hitch-we were informed our luggage was overweight and we had to pay $100.  They took our boarding passes and we had to go to another place (and line) to pay the charge at which time we got new boarding passes.  We then ran to our gate (other end of the airport, upstairs, through security-Tom's artificial joints always require a pat down).  The only person at the gate was a woman who looked at our passes and told us to head to the bus for gate 7.  We ran to the bus only to have to wait.  When it arrived, 12 others had joined us and we were taken to the plane.  They had had to hold the flight for 45 minutes for us.  Then the big question-did our luggage make it?  Much to our relief, after a 2 hour flight to Iguazu our luggage showed up and the car service rep. was their with a name card waiting to take us to our next destination, a small strip shopping center in the middle of nowhere (Raices, Argentina).  It was 12:00 noon and we were told to wait and we'd be picked up at 2:00 or 2:30 for the trip to our lodge in the rainforest.  2:00 came and no one.  Finally at 2:30 this beat up rusted hulk of a 4 wheel drive sport ute pulled into the lot and out jumps a "jungle bandito"-fatigues, head scarf, combat vest, beard.  As it turned out a Flemish couple were also there waiting as was a young 6'5" German guy.  We craweled in the rear seat and the other three crawled into the middle seat.  The slider windows next to us were rusted open as were the roll down windows for the others.  We then headed off for a 2 hour ride over a red clay mud road into the jungle.  As we rode, red clay mud chunks were flying in the windows and hitting us.  We just looked at each other and whispered, "My god, what have we gotten ourselves into?"  We knew at any point the driver and the "bandido" were going to whip out a machete, cut our throats and take our money and luggage.  Tena looked over and whispered, remember the scene in "Romancing the Stone" where Michael Douglas and Kathleen Turner were in his vehicle driving through the jungle?  That is exactly what it was like, only on steroids.  The driver was doing 40-50 mph and the vehichle was fishtailing and sliding side ways for the entire drive.  After 2 hours of holding on for dear life we pull into this absolutely beautiful setting in the Yacutinga Rainforest.  The Yacutinga Lodge was designed to blend into the environment and was built to be eco friendly.  As it turns out, the area had had a hundred year rain the day before we arrived and the Lodge's new fancy vehicles wouldn't handle the road in its current condition.  So, they had to rent on short notice the 4X4 vehicle that picked us up.  As for the "bandido," his name was Corino.  He was one of the most interesting characters we have ever met.  The German kid, Daniel, described him as being fluent in 4 different people languages, 3 monkey languages and untold number of bird languages.  He could literally call monkeys and birds who would come where we could see them.  He knew the rainforest environment, flora and fauna, like no other.  That day and the next day were filled with a morning jungle walk, kayaking on the Iguazu and a 3 hour evening/night hike back to the Lodge.  When we approached a swamp near dusk, he managed to attract a Cayman to us-right up to us.   After we returned to the Lodge for our last night a very unique dinner awaited us.  The perfect end to a perfect day.

Last Night Aboard & Debarking

After our Rounding of Cape Horn everyone adjourned to the dining room for our "Final Supper."  When dinner was over and the tables cleared a group of us, mostly crazy Aussies, but also a couple of Americans, Canadians and Russians got into a singing contest of national songs.  We definitely got an interesting presentation of "Waltzing Matilda," the "National Anthem" (and other US songs) and the "Russian Anthem."  Tom ended up doing the Cossack dance with one of the Russians while the Russian crew stood around and sang.  He probably shortened the life of his one last remaining knee by several years.  The crew finally chased us from the dining room and we moved onto the lounge to continue the cruise wind down.  We headed to our cabin around midnight to finish packing for an early morneing debarking in Ushuaia.  Others continued 'til about 3:00 PM.  Saying good-bye to everyone the following morning was sad.  We were leaving fellow adventurers who had become good friends.  Tom got a hearty Russian good-bye (Hugs and kisses on both cheeks from both Valeri and Natalya).  We stored our luggage for several hours and knocked around Ushuaia (Fin del Mondo-End of the World) one last time before heading for a mid afternood flight to Buenos Aires.  Many of those on the Expedition with us were on the plane, so we had a final good-bye when we got to BA.  We got to our beautiful/classic hotel (The Savoy) at 9:30, so had no chance to check out BA.  

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Drake Lake

Wow!  Where to begin the ending of this incredible adventure.  The infamous
Drake Passage, known for its extreme weather and raging storms, was very
kind to us.  Crossing it was more like Drake Lake.  We had minimal winds and
calm seas.  As a result the captain headed west into Chilean waters and then
turned East so we could round Cape Horn.  As we headed East a small sailboat
flying a French flag was heading West around the Horn.  This is our last
night on the boat.  We just finished viewing a DVD we will all receive that
is composed of the photos people took on the trip and then downloaded.  One
of the crew screened over 3000 photos to come up with the final version.
The slide show was a recap of our trip and really captured the experience.
We debark in Ushuaia in the morning and people will be heading off to the 4
corners of the earth.  We will be heading for Buenos Aires to spend the
night before heading into the rainforest and Iguazu Falls for 4 days.  We
will be staying at the Yucatinga Lodge and get there by flying and then 4
wheel drive vehicle.  Don't know if we'll have access to internet in the
jungle so this may be our last blog entry before we return to Baltimore on
Jan. 22.  If so, good-bye and hope all of you had a wonderful New Year.

Friday, January 14, 2011

Gale Force Conditions

Sailed through the night to the South Shetland Islands for two possible
landings, but no luck.  The wind is howling at a constant 45+ knots, which
are gale force conditions.  The captain has done everything possible to find
us a safe landing beach, but the anchor keeps dragging.  Even with the
thrusters at full power to help hold the ship in position, he is not able to
do so.  In about 2 hours we will leave Antarctica and head across the Drake
Passage for Ushuaia.  We have two days sail ahead of us across what could be
some rough weather.  We won't know for sure 'til we get in the passage.  The
passengers who have previously suffered from seasickness are all dreading
the voyage.  So far, we continue to be some of the lucky few who have been
unaffected.  Can't believe we will soon be on the homeward leg and our
unique adventure will be over.

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Age of Discovery

Today, we made official landfall on the continent of Antarctica at Brown's
Bluff.  The beach, as is with so many, is comprised of small stones and
covered with penguin colonies.  There were Adelies, Gentus, and Chin Straps,
plus a young Weddell seal.  Getting to the beach was tricky due to the large
number of icebergs and drifting pack ice.  It was touch and go for awhile as
to whether we'd be able to make landfall.  Yesterday, we were in Paulet
Island which is a breeding colony for Adelie penguins.  There were over
500,000 penguins running around.  Talk about noise and smell.  The island is
stained red from the krill they excrete.  There is a Shag rookerie in
amongst the penguins as well.  The location is noted for the remains of a
hut that one of the early explores erected when stranded on the island.  His
name was Larsen and he survived with his men for 12 months eating nothing
but penguins.  The early explorers during the Age of Discovery (1800s) were
certainly a hardy bunch.  After Paulet Island we sailed down Iceberg Alley.
The captain deftly manuvered among the big bergs and pack ice to an
anchorage where we could cruise among the ice in the Zodiacs.  We saw a
Leopard Seal, a Crab Eater Seal and a Weddell seal on different ice floes.
Many other floes had penguins riding them.  The ice got so heavy that we had
to anchor during the night.  This gave many a chance to see several Humpback
whales feeding around the ship.  We are currently anchored as groups cruise
the bay in the Zodiacs.  Tena just got back, having seen more seals,
penguins and big ice.  We move on this evening to the South Shetland Islands
and then head back across the Drake Passage (Cape Horn) for our debarkation
in Ushuaia.  Our land fall on Antarctica makes our 4th continent.  During
lunch, the guide had those who had visited all 7 continents hold up their
hands, and nearly 3/4s of the group did so.  The Aussies on this trip are
certainly a well traveled bunch.  We are looking forward to future travels
to our 3 remaining continents.  More later!

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Antarctica!

We are now on the Antarctic Peninsula.  After a two and a half day sail,
mostly through gale force winds and 15-18 feet seas the captain is
manuvering to anchor the ship so we can go to shore by Zodiac inflatables.
We have some incredible photos and video taken from the bridge of the ship
plowing through the waves.  The bridge is 5o feet above the water and the
waves crashing off the bow would splash all the way up to the bridge level.
Those of us who are not suffering from seasickness were loving it, but the
poor folks who were ill were suffering terribly.  They will certainly be
happy to have the ship at anchor for awhile and to get ashore.  We are now
surrounded by icebergs and small chunks of ice known as bergy bits.  The deck
is also covered in ice in some places so walking is precarious.  If all goes
as planned we are scheduled for two excursions ashore-one this morning and
one this afternoon.  We are definitely in big ice country.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Livin' in the Bergs...

What an incredible day at sea.  We had several presentations by the
specialists on the trip, e.g. sea life in Antarctica, icebergs, etc.  This
evening we sailed through a field of icebergs-huge ones.  Some bigger than
the one that took out the Titanic.  One berg had a group of over 100 Adelie
penguins riding on it.  The table bergs were truly impressive.  Adding the
icing on the cake were dozens of fin and humpback whales surrounding the
ship.  We were seeing as many as 6-7 plumes at a time as the whales breached
to get air before sounding.  The sea life on South Georgia Island was
unbelievable, but the ice and whales are what we came to see and let us know
we are not only in the Antarctic Convergence, but are in Antarctica itself.
It should only get better from here.  More later!

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Dodging Sea-Sickness and/or Whales

We are currently at sea, leaving South Georgia Island and heading for the
Antarctic Peninsula, with a possible stop at South Orkney Island.  This will
be governed by weather.  We were in some gale force weather this morning.
Tom was on the bridge taking photos of the waves breaking over the bow of
the ship and reaching as high as the bridge level on a couple of
occasions-pretty impressive.  While filming he saw a whale just off the
starboard bow and then two more came up on the port beam just off the bridge
wing.  They were fin whales.  The captain has now set a westerly course to
avoid more rough weather.  Once clear he'll turn south for Antarctica.  Many
on board are now quite sea sick and spend their time in their cabins in bed.
 Fortunately, this has not been a problem for us.  We will be at sea all day
tomorrow.

Saturday, January 8, 2011

About to Sail

Had another exciting day on S. Georgia Island walking among the penguins and
fur seals.  The plethora of life on this island is amazing.  We've become
skilled at fending off the aggresive seals as we stroll along their beach
and into the hills above.  They are everywhere.  We've also gotten into
elephant seal beaches.  They are huge and the sounds they make when added to
the cacaphony of the fur seal pups makes for a noisy environment.  We've
been lucky with the weather.  Some days have actually been quite warm.  We
go prepared for cool weather, but usually start removing layers as soon as
we hit the beach.  Today however is a different story.  We had a very wet
and cold Zodiac ride into a bay to visit an old abandoned whaling station
this morning.  We had to view it from the rafts since it was off limits due
to asbestos contamination.  This is typical of all the old stations
throughout the island.  Our planned noon landing in Right Whale Bay had to
be cancelled due to rough seas that were blowing right on shore.  Zodiac
landings would have been too challenging. We are now heading for an island
that harbors an albatross breeding colony that has been closed for some
time.  We will be the first group allowed in to the reserve.  Getting to
know many people and learning about life in Australia.  There are a number
of teachers so we can relate.  Seems that no matter who we talk with, life
is pretty much the same.  Tonight we leave S. Georgia and head for the
Antarctic Peninsula-two days sail.  Should be exciting getting into big ice.
 We have already seen small icebergs.  We have discovered that our ship is
the best in the subpolar region and was actually standing by to help, if
needed, the ship that many of you saw on the news.  Our ship, Akademick
Ioffee, was only 20 miles behind that ship in the same storm and people on
board we casually having coffee as the Celia II was struggling after
experiencing damage.  More later.

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Pecked by a Penguin, Sortied by a Seal

We have tried to find words to describe the past day and a half on South
Georgia Island.  All we can come up with is,  Wow!!  Yesterday morning we
cruised by Zodiacs into bays and fjords for up close and personal encounters
with hundreds of fur and elephant seals and penguins.  Then in the afternoon
we moved to another anchorage to walk ashore on the Salisbury Plain among
thousands of penguins and fur seals.  The penguin rookery went on as far as
one could see.  At one point Tom just stood very still and a King penguin
came up to give him the once over by pecking at his leg and tugging on his
parka.  What a thrill to be able to interact with such unique creatures.  We
also had to assume the defensive position with some fur seal males as they
charged to assert their territory.  It could be a little unsettling as they
are intimidating critters-mean set of teeth.  The young penguins were just
balls of brown fluff as they were shedding their baby plumage for the adult
feathers.  But the most precious of all were the fur seal pups.  You just
wanted to pick each one up and give them a hug.  Their constant crying for
their mothers to come feed them creates an eerie sound that can be heard
from quite a distance even when we are sailing by in the ship.  It is a
haunting sound that we don't think we'll ever forget.  This morning we went
ashore for more trekking through the seal and penguin colonies and also saw
Reindeer herds.  They were transplanted here by the Norwegians during the
days of whaling as a food source.  We have been taking photos by the
hundreds.  We just hope they turn out and can capture the experience.  More
later!

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

20 hours of daylight

Tuesday, Jan. 4, 2011
Spent the day traversihg the Scotia Sea and finally crossed into the
Antarctic Zone.  The temperature drop was significant when we entered the
current bringing cold water up from Antarctica.  We saw many fur seals,
penguins, albatrosses, petrals, etc. this evening as we head toward a
morning landing on South Georgia Island.  Being two of the few Americans on
the trip has been interesting.  We are surrounded by Aussies, Kiwis,
Canadiens, Chinese, Koreans, and who knows how many more.  It has been
interesting getting their take on America.  It is surprising how little they
know about the things we take for granted as part of our culture, especially
considering how well traveled most of them are.  Yet, it's amazing that we
all share so many of the same problems/issues.  The seas have been
surprisingly calm for the Great Southern Ocean, but we have had a solid two
days of fog that has limited our visibility.  Also, the ship is very stable.
 The Russian crew maintains a clean ship.  The food, though lacking somewhat
in taste, is plentiful.  We have an early wake-up so we can enjoy the
passage into South Georgia and the view of significant wildlife populations.
 We still continue to have about 20 hours of daylight, but that will change
to 24 hours of daylight when we leave South Georgia for the Antarctic
Peninsula.  We also have a pool on when we will see our first iceberg.
Should be exciting.  More later!

British?

Sat. 01-01
Our second great trip to shore - Carcass Island.  We saw many birds and more
penguins.

Sun. 01-02
Spent the night at sea and arrived at Port Stanley in AM. Went to shore to
visit the museum and a few shops.  Ate at the Globe Bar.  We learned a lot
about the Falklands War in 1982. The islanders are very British.  We'll be
at sea for the next two days.  We are now looking for our first iceberg.

Sunday, January 2, 2011

The Southern Cross

We went ashore on "Carcus Island."  |t was named after a ship, not a dead
body.  We were dropped ashore via Zodiac inflatable raft and walked two
miles to the private home of Falkland Islanders. They served us "High Tea"
via English style.  The spread was incredible-over 40 different types of
pasteries.  After the long walk around the island viewing more penguins and
other wild life, we were ready for some down time.  Today, using the
vernacular of today's youth, was "awesome!!"  We have an early rise in the
morning for breakfast so we can debark in Port Stanley, the only
civilizatiion we'll see on this adventure.  We have a view in the night sky
totally different from that in the Northern Hemisphere; no Big/Little
dipper.  Here it is the Southern Cross-absolutely beautiful.  It's now 10:30
pm our time and the sun just went down.  We get about 20 hours of daylight.
Dinner is usually not served 'til around 8:00 pm, so our body clocks are
totally out of whack, but we are adjusting quickly.  Interesting people on
the cruise.  We are two of only a few Americans.  Conversations are always
interesting and informative.  Their take on the USA a little different from
that voiced by many back home.  That's it for now.  More tomorrow!

Penguins!

We had our first landing ashore today right in the middle of multiple
penguin rookeries.  The Gentus, Magellinic, King and Rocker Hopper penguins
were everywhere.  Also many bird species, in particular, the Skuas as they
would raid nests and catch little baby penguins for lunch. In fact they had
a nest with chicks right next to the rookeries-closer to the food source.
Poor little penguins.  The Rooks were also active trying to steal a chick.
The penguins were constantly on their guard for attackers.  But, they seemed
to have little reservation about us getting right next to them.  We just
finished lunch and are on our way to another anchorage and trip[ ashore in
the afternoon.  Our experience today was incredible and the guides tell us
it is nothing compared to South Georgia Island.  If true we can't even begin
to imagine what we're in for.  Got to go and suit up for the ride to shore
in the Zodiac inflatable rafts-it gets a little wet.  The wind is blowing
about a steady 30 MPH so we get much spray and roling surf on the beach.
Having a marvelous time!

Off We Go!

Friday,
12-31-10
We made it to our destination  after 36 hours of flights and layovers. The
flight from Buenoa Aires to Ushuaia was beautiful with huge mountains
covered with snow.  It was very warm when we arrived but it is now cooling
off. We even had all of our luggage arrive - Yeah!!!!  Unfortunately we
could not get access to a computer after we landed. We have had two glorious
days on board the Research Vessel.  We've met many wonderful people from all
over the world.  There are only 10 couples from the US so we have been
hanging with the Brits,Canadians,  Aussies, and New Zealanders.  We've seen
some really interesting birds, a few penguins, and Albotross.  We are
heading to The Falklands where we will have the opportunity to see lots of
penguins.  Tonight we will be celebrating New Year's Eve as we head for the
Falklands.  So far, the weather is cooperating.  Since we don't have access
to the internet our nephew may be able to update our blog for us.  This is
the first attempt.  We hope you have a wonderful New Year's.  We'll see you
in 2011.  Tena and Tom


p.s. This is Ian Ferrell, the nephew, being e-mailed from Tena and Tom and relaying their messages, so they probably won't get your comments for awhile.